A Coastal Voyage in Uncertain Times
For us, planning a cruise to somewhere here in East Africa begins shortly after we return from our last cruise. A sailing adventure is not like jumping in the car or bus. Or even buying a plane ticket.
Deciding how to get somewhere upwind from your home port is also something to be considered. In a sailboat, you cannot just point in the direction that you want to go especially if the wind is coming from that direction. The best that you can hope for is probably 45 degrees either side of the wind direction and in a catamaran, 50 degrees or more. So that means we must sail back and forth to get to where we want to go thereby doubling or tripling the distance. OR… we just turn on the motor, but that sort of defeats the purpose of sailing and using only the FREE wind as our means of propulsion.
An army marches on its stomach as does a sailing crew. There are no fast-food joints or kiosks to stop at sea if you are hungry. Especially when you are in a remote part of Kenya as well as 20 km from the nearest land. So, you must carry all your food with you and prepare it at sea in sometimes bouncy conditions. Think camping, but only in the middle of the ocean, where everything moves constantly including yourself.
In late November 2025, we made the decision to physically sail to sail to Tanga, Tanzania’s northern most port and terminus of an oil pipeline originating in Uganda, after the 22nd. We were hoping to do it “administratively” like last year when I was in Mongolia for work. In addition, the recent arrival of the superyacht “Salt,” several weeks earlier, had disrupted the normal flow of things in Kilifi, Kenya, where we normally cleared out.
The Fearless Crew
They say that you can’t tell the players without a score card, so here they are:
- Emmanuel (aka “Manu”): Kenyan First Mate
- Whitney: sometime deckhand and social media guru. She seemed to be able to sleep 20 hours per day on the voyage. She would only awake upon hearing the words “Samaki” (“fish” in Kiswahili) or “Dolphins!”
- Victor: a Kenyan advocate and friend who hopped on board on Day 2 in Mtwapa and sailed with us to Shimoni the following day where he disembarked
- Elias: a 19-year-old lad from Vienna, Austria who is volunteer teaching in Nairobi, and who was refered to us by the Kilifi Boat Yard. He arrived Saturday night by road in Tanga and sailed with us all the way back to Watamu
- Mare: is an old friend from working together on USAID projects in South Sudan and Afghanistan and is now a neighbour. She flew in from Cape Town and joined us in Shimoni on the way back to Watamu. In her gap year, she was a chef on a charter sailboat in the Bahamas and did the most amazing job with the fish that we caught on the way home
- The Skipper: an international legislative drafting consultant for several multinational donor agencies as well as a passionate sailor for over 55 years
Wednesday, November 26, 2025
On Wednesday, November 26, we started the process of the paperwork by taking a tuktuk to the nearby city of Malindi, about 45 minutes away by 3-wheeler from our homeport of Watamu, Kenya. We met with Lydia at Kenya Revenue Authority (“KRA”) Customs for a Transire—800 KES (about $6 USD). We needed to be in Shimoni, Kenya’s southernmost port by no later than December 6.
The plan was to depart Watamu, on the Kenya’s north Indian Ocean Coast, and home of what some say are Africa’s most beautiful beaches, on Tuesday, December 2 at first light.
Even though we are sailing within the East African Community (“EAC”), deckhand Manu needed to get his Temporary Permit at a cost of KES 1450 (about $11.50 USD). Our other part-time deckhand Whitney decided at the last minute to join us, and she too had to run around to a local cybercafé to get hers.
Saturday, November 29, 2025
I tried to apply online for a Tanzania Visa, but it surprisingly didn’t list the Port of Shimoni as an entry point and therefore I had to wait until I physically arrived in Tanzania.
We cleaned the yacht thoroughly and got a lot of useless stuff off. We also bought a 30 litre mtungi (Jerry can) of fuel and a few litres of 2-stroke oil.
Monday, December 1, 2025
My Roman Catholic Priest, Father Stephen Ndega, and 3 nuns, all from St John’s Roman Catholic Parish here in Watamu, came to bless the boat at the end of the day. After the blessing, we all went to Ocean Sports Resort, where we moor CassandravillE during the Kaskazi (northern monsoon) season, for pizza.
Sailing from Watamu to Tanga
Tuesday, December 2, 2025—Departure Day
The plan was to be on the catamaran by 0545. Upon arrival at Ocean Sports, I had collected some pre-ordered sandwiches for the crew. We sailed through the mlango (the channel) into the Indian Ocean before 6 AM. The voyage had started!
We spent the whole day sailing south to Mtwapa, (passing Kilifi on the way) finishing in front of Marina Seaside Restaurant in Mtwapa (Mombasa) where we took a mooring for 500 KES (about $4 USD) per night.
Wednesday, December 3, 2025
Manu and I were up at 515 AM—Whitney was still asleep—in fact she slept most of the journey. Advocate and friend Victor joined us from Marina Seaside. He brought a local Swahili breakfast for us all, which was delicious.
We had a late start and were out the mlango by 7. We had a 10–11-hour sail ahead of us.
As we passed Diani, on the South Coast (i.e. south of Mombasa), Instagram friend Steffen came out in his speed boat to greet us (we met physically for the first time). Dive Instructor Ali Khan of Scuba Duka took a photo of us from his dive school on the shore. (We first met Ali several years ago coming back from Tanga when we had engine problems and needed to anchor for several days in front of Soul Breeze lodge.)
We pressed on and just after sunset, we anchored for the night behind Chale Island Resort (as we usually do). After sailing around the bay and up to the village of Gazi looking for a pub, we found out that there were none. There are no bars in this Muslim part of the Kenya Coast, so we anchored back behind the resort. I had earlier called the Resort to ask if we could come ashore for a drink, but they only had day packages, which according to the internet cost about $180 USD per person! A bit much to pay for a beer don’t you think!
Our supper consisted of beans & frankfurters and dried toast, heated on the gas jiko.
Thursday, December 4
As Victor and Whitney slept, we were sailing before the sun rose, to Shimoni, a few further miles to the south, in order to clear out of Kenya.
A friend from Nomadic Sails (again, an Instagram follower whom we had never met!) greeted us on the jetty and took us to Customs, Immigration and the Port Health offices. Thanks again Nassir!
On the way back to the jetty, the crew stopped and bought some fresh vegetables and watermelon.
Nassir then bought us a seafood lunch at a restaurant across the channel on Wasini Island, Wasini Mpunguti Lodge, where we had taken a temporary mooring. Victor then left us and, we untied from the mooring at about 3 PM sailing westwards toward Sii Island. The coordinates on my GPS were wrong (showing it somewhere in the middle of the ocean!), but Sii Island looked beautiful as we sailed past it. Next time!
We continued another few nautical miles and sailed up an inlet into Tanzania where we anchored for the night. On the way in, we could see the majestic peaks of Mt Kilimanjaro! Luckily, we caught a small barracuda which the crew ate (wazungu [foreigners] don’t eat barracuda because of its “fishy” taste).
Friday
We upped anchor and left about 6 AM (Whitney was in her cabin, having only gone to sleep a few hours earlier). We sailed south along the Coast towards Tanga, our ultimate destination, going past Moa Bay. We had thought of anchoring there the previous night, but some sailing friends told us of being rousted and searched by Tanzanian Navy earlier this year as Moa has a bad reputation for being a drug smuggling port.
We arrived at Tanga Yacht Club at about 1230 and waited for Port Health to row out. They gave us Free Pratique, and we lowered the yellow quarantine flag.
We rowed ashore with the Health Officials and met with Francis from Immigration who directed us to the immigration offices and to a local bank where I could pay the $50 visa fee. I then went back to his office with the receipt. The Kenyan crew, as citizens of the EAC, didn’t have to pay a thing.
We stopped for sugar cane juice on the way to Tanzanian Customs at the port, where we cleared in and out with the Transires. (Whitney was stopped at the entrance because of “inappropriate shorts,” but was allowed through once they realised that she was Kenyan! She was told several times around Tanga not to dress in short shorts).
We then headed back to the Yacht Club.
Weekend in Tanga
Saturday
The “fearless crew” took a tuktuk into town and visited the 2 supermarkets for provisioning. Of course, we just had to stop for sugar cane juice!
Back to Club to wait for the sailboats competing in the Dar Tanga Yacht Race to arrive from Dar Yacht Club(“DYC”) in Dar-es-Salaam (Tanzania’s largest city and commercial capital).
The Tanga Race is the oldest, largest and longest yacht Race in East Africa having commenced in 1964. This writer has competed 3 times including 2018 and 2019 in CassandravillE. At times, there were over 25 competitors, but owing to the current political unrest in Tanzania over a disputed election, only 9 boats competed with 3 dropping out at the last minute. This year was the 61st anniversary of the Tanga Race, but violence was expected across the country on Tanzanian Independence Day being December 9. We ourselves wanted to be back in Kenya before the 9th, over fear that the borders—including the maritime borders– might be closed. Fortunately, everything was calm.
Leopard 39 Catamaran Zanzibar Nomad owned by Nasser (a DIFFERENT Nasser!), was the first in the cruising class. He was an old friend whom I have known and messaged with for years. He was my sailing hero, a “local boy,” having competed in the Clipper Round the World Yacht Race (previous crew Avaneil, from Toronto, had sailed with him in 2023 Tanga Race, as we decided, at the last minute, not to compete that year) but, like many others on this voyage, we had never physically met.
Later that afternoon, we took old TYC friend Terry, as well as the former Commodore Edward, plus their kids to sail out to welcome in the first few competitors in the Racing Class. The first yacht in was followed by 4 or 5 dolphins almost under the transom of Battuta. iLanga from nearby Kilifi, Kenya, and Sans Pareil arrived later.
We later hung around the Club to catch up with old sailing friends from previous Tanga Races. The thing about sailing friends is, that years can pass in between, but you are still friends.
On Friday, I took a hotel room in the Mtendele Ras Kazone Hotel which is about a 10-minute walk from the Yacht Club. I had dinner at Club which was an Indian buffet which had fresh naan from the tandoor!
New crew, Elias, arrived by bus from Kilifi, Kenya, at about 9 30 PM. After getting him settled in, we retired for the night.
Sunday, December 7, 2025
We had breakfast with old friends from DYC including Nick, Cedric, Ahmed, Tom and of course new crew Elias and then checked out of the hotel.
We walked to TYC, with the intention of clearing out at 10 AM but Immigration never came. We therefore needed to head over to the immigration offices in the afternoon to meet Francis.
We stopped at the “Indian” S.D. Supermarket nasco, on the way back and bought some meat for the return which we put in the club freezer along with our ice packs.
Later that afternoon was the Awards Party at the Yacht Club followed by another Indian-food buffet.
That night, we slept on the yacht to get an early start on Monday.
The return voyage home to Watamu
Monday, December 8 (Cassandra’s birthday)
We reluctantly left Tanga Yacht Club (I just love Tanga!) at 6 30 AM bound for Shimoni (Whitney of course was still dead asleep). The next day was Independence Day in Tanzania and we were anxious to get back across the border into Kenya. Widespread protests were anticipated across Tanzania, and we had heard rumours that the borders would be closed; we did not know if this included maritime borders or not, so we rushed.
We sailed the short distance north towards Manza Bay (where we usually anchor on the way to Tanga when we aren’t in such a rush). Manza Bay was the site of a very famous naval battle during World War I. We then crossed to Shimoni, Kenya, where we arrived around 1330.
Low tide and exposed reefs all around prevented our entry to the western channel between Shimoni and Wasini Island. One of our 2 fishing lines had caught on the reef, so Manu dived in to unhook it. We then anchored and swam for about an hour for the tide to come.
We sailed around Wasini Island (Kenya Customs told us they saw us sailing in with our coloured mainsail!). We then went to the offices and got Free Pratique (Manu and Whitney left their yellow fever vaccination cards in Tanga) but Consolata from Port Health trusted them and allowed them to get away with having to get a new vaccination.
At Immigration, since Manu had gone back to the yacht to look for the yellow fever vaccination cards, they stamped him in without even seeing him. This is WHY we have grown to love clearing in and out of Shimoni!
Mare had arrived some hours earlier, by way of Mombasa, and was staying in a tent made from an old dhow at Firefly Eco Retreat a mile or so away. We sailed over and anchored and collected Mare’s stuff. Mare had also provisioned for us at Carrefour in Mombasa. We stored our food and ice packs in the lodge’s fridge overnight.
Whitney went ashore and stayed with Mare overnight (she was happy to bond with a woman instead of a boat full of men ).
The Lodge’s manager then invited us to use the Lodge’s mooring for the night.
Tuesday
Up at dawn again, and after moving from the mooring and anchoring close to the Eco Retreat, we collected Mare and Whitney in the kayak and then headed out around 0630 after watching a magnificent sunrise. We then sailed on to Mtwapa arriving there about 1730.
Along the way, we caught an 8 kg Dorado. The crew marveled at how she changed colours as we pulled her in, and later as she died.
I paddled ashore to Marina Seaside and was welcomed by Ralf the owner, and Alice the manager, while I purchased a few bottles of water and a bag of ice. Lawyer Victor was there having a few beers and was thinking of joining us for the sail back the next morning to Watamu.
Mare cooked the Dorado—grilled, and then deep-fried the leftovers, which we ate the next day as a salad. It was delicious. We then went to sleep.
Wednesday
I was still up at 5, even though we agreed to sail at 7 PM. Sadly, we had engine problems with the carburetor, so we hired a local outboard motor fundi (“mechanic”) for 4000 KES (about $31 USD), finally departing for the daylong sail to our homeport of Watamu at about 10 AM.
Along the way, we caught a 15 kg barracuda (Manu cut off a few pieces for my 4 dogs and Mare’s 3 cats. Apparently, you should always bring home treats for your pets as they believe that you are out hunting!)
We saw some pilot whales (“big dolphins” as the Kenyan crew refered to them) while passing Uyombo, just before UNESCO-protected Mida Creek, which is our usual sailing grounds during the Kusi season).
We sailed past Whale Rock, at the entrance to Mida Creek (and the southern boundary of Watamu), at about 1800 and were on our mooring by 1845.
To reward ourselves, we went to Ocean Sports Resort for pizza and a bottle of bubbly and were met by a few of our friends. We got home about 9 pm; dead tired.
Postscript
Thursday
We went back to the nearby town of Malindi to complete the clearing in process with Kenya Customs with the transire from Shimoni, which we turned in.
While there, we also visited the Catholic Cemetary (December 8 was my late wife Cassandra’s [and the namesake of my yacht] birthday). We then went for chicken schnitzel at Malindi Sea Fishing Club. Elias declared it to be as good as the original Austrian version!
So, the planning for December 2026, and possibly the Dar Tanga Yacht Race 2026 has begun! Heck, we are even talking about sailing south along the Tanzanian cost to Mafia and Lindi and maybe, even on to Comoros and Madagascar!