Watamu to Tanga by Sail
A Coastal Voyage in Uncertain Times For us, planning a cruise to somewhere here in East Africa begins shortly after we return from our last cruise. A sailing adventure is not like jumping in the car or bus. Or even buying a plane ticket. Deciding how to get somewhere upwind from your home port is also something to be considered. In a sailboat, you cannot just point in the direction that you want to go especially if the wind is coming from that direction. The best that you can hope for is probably 45 degrees either side of the wind direction and in a catamaran, 50 degrees or more. So that means we must sail back and forth to get to where we want to go thereby doubling or tripling the distance. OR… we just turn on the motor, but that sort of defeats the purpose of sailing and using only the FREE wind as our means of propulsion. An army marches on its stomach as does a sailing crew. There are no fast-food joints or kiosks to stop at sea if you are hungry. Especially when you are in a remote part of Kenya as well as 20 km from the nearest land. So, you must carry all your food with you and prepare it at sea in sometimes bouncy conditions. Think camping, but only in the middle of the ocean, where everything moves constantly including yourself. In late November 2025, we made the decision to physically sail to sail to Tanga, Tanzania’s northern most port and terminus of an oil pipeline originating in Uganda, after the 22nd. We were hoping to do it “administratively” like last year when I was in Mongolia for work. In addition, the recent arrival of the superyacht “Salt,” several weeks earlier, had disrupted the normal flow of things in Kilifi, Kenya, where we normally cleared out. The Fearless Crew They say that you can’t tell the players without a score card, so here they are: Wednesday, November 26, 2025 On Wednesday, November 26, we started the process of the paperwork by taking a tuktuk to the nearby city of Malindi, about 45 minutes away by 3-wheeler from our homeport of Watamu, Kenya. We met with Lydia at Kenya Revenue Authority (“KRA”) Customs for a Transire—800 KES (about $6 USD). We needed to be in Shimoni, Kenya’s southernmost port by no later than December 6. The plan was to depart Watamu, on the Kenya’s north Indian Ocean Coast, and home of what some say are Africa’s most beautiful beaches, on Tuesday, December 2 at first light. Even though we are sailing within the East African Community (“EAC”), deckhand Manu needed to get his Temporary Permit at a cost of KES 1450 (about $11.50 USD). Our other part-time deckhand Whitney decided at the last minute to join us, and she too had to run around to a local cybercafé to get hers. Saturday, November 29, 2025 I tried to apply online for a Tanzania Visa, but it surprisingly didn’t list the Port of Shimoni as an entry point and therefore I had to wait until I physically arrived in Tanzania. We cleaned the yacht thoroughly and got a lot of useless stuff off. We also bought a 30 litre mtungi (Jerry can) of fuel and a few litres of 2-stroke oil. Monday, December 1, 2025 My Roman Catholic Priest, Father Stephen Ndega, and 3 nuns, all from St John’s Roman Catholic Parish here in Watamu, came to bless the boat at the end of the day. After the blessing, we all went to Ocean Sports Resort, where we moor CassandravillE during the Kaskazi (northern monsoon) season, for pizza. Sailing from Watamu to Tanga Tuesday, December 2, 2025—Departure Day The plan was to be on the catamaran by 0545. Upon arrival at Ocean Sports, I had collected some pre-ordered sandwiches for the crew. We sailed through the mlango (the channel) into the Indian Ocean before 6 AM. The voyage had started! We spent the whole day sailing south to Mtwapa, (passing Kilifi on the way) finishing in front of Marina Seaside Restaurant in Mtwapa (Mombasa) where we took a mooring for 500 KES (about $4 USD) per night. Wednesday, December 3, 2025 Manu and I were up at 515 AM—Whitney was still asleep—in fact she slept most of the journey. Advocate and friend Victor joined us from Marina Seaside. He brought a local Swahili breakfast for us all, which was delicious. We had a late start and were out the mlango by 7. We had a 10–11-hour sail ahead of us. As we passed Diani, on the South Coast (i.e. south of Mombasa), Instagram friend Steffen came out in his speed boat to greet us (we met physically for the first time). Dive Instructor Ali Khan of Scuba Duka took a photo of us from his dive school on the shore. (We first met Ali several years ago coming back from Tanga when we had engine problems and needed to anchor for several days in front of Soul Breeze lodge.) We pressed on and just after sunset, we anchored for the night behind Chale Island Resort (as we usually do). After sailing around the bay and up to the village of Gazi looking for a pub, we found out that there were none. There are no bars in this Muslim part of the Kenya Coast, so we anchored back behind the resort. I had earlier called the Resort to ask if we could come ashore for a drink, but they only had day packages, which according to the internet cost about $180 USD per person! A bit much to pay for a beer don’t you think! Our supper consisted of beans & frankfurters and dried toast, heated on the gas jiko. Thursday, December 4 As Victor and Whitney slept, we were sailing before the sun rose, to Shimoni, a few further miles to the south, in order to clear out of Kenya. A friend from
